Hoi An travel guide

Hoi An's atmospheric Old Town

These days, Hoi An is a relaxed town of about 120,000 people, 10 ­per cent of whom live in the Old Quarter, which has been turned into a historical showpiece for tourists. Many of the older homes, with their wooden beams, carved doors and airy, open rooms, have been turned into souvenir shops masquerading as museums. While it’s certainly the old architecture that draws the tourist buses, there’s no denying that shopping is the new heart and soul of Hoi An. Bespoke tailor shops are found everywhere, and it's not uncommon to see tourists lugging entire suitcases filled with newly tailored suits and dresses. In fact, some worry that the very thing that makes Hoi An attractive – its quiet charm and peaceful atmosphere – is being ruined. Nearly all of the buildings in the Old Town have been turned into shops or restaur­ants, and about 80 per cent of the residents now directly derive their income from tourism. Centre Vietnam tours

Places to see near Hoi An

Cua Dai Beach

Just 5km (3 miles) from Hoi An is the broad silvery expanse of Cua Dai Beach. This stretch of sand is lined with several good beachside resorts, including one of Vietnam’s most expensive, the fabulously indulgent Nam Hai. Some 20km (12 miles), or 25 minutes by speedboat, from Hoi An and Cua Dai Beach is Cu Lao Cham Marine Park, which comprises eight islands that make up the Cham Islands archipelago. The marine park is one of the finest diving spots in central Vietnam. The main Cham Island is known for its rich bounty of swallows’ nests (the species in question is, in fact, German’s swiftlet), used in birds’ nest soup – a prized delicacy in Chinese communities all over Asia. Danang – Hue – Hoian 4 days

My Son

The ancient kingdom of Champa, which is thought to date back to the second century AD and flourished from the fifth to the 15th centuries, once occupied the central Vietnamese coast all the way to the Dong Nai River in the south. After many struggles, Champa was conquered by the Vietnamese – but the Cham people remained. As their kingdom was swallowed piecemeal by the invading Viet (Kinh), increasing numbers of Cham fled to neighbouring Cambodia, though others chose to remain under Viet tutelage in their former homelands. My Son, nestled under the green slopes of Cat’s Tooth Mountain (Nui Rang Meo) some 50km (31 miles) from Hoi An, is the site of Vietnam’s most important Cham monuments and was declared a Unesco World Heritage site in 1999. It is one of the most atmospheric locations anywhere in the country, with the crumbling ruins set in a verdant jungle. Chosen as a religious sanctuary by King Bhadravarman I in the fourth century, many temples and towers (kalan) were built in this area. There are 11 designated temple groups in My Son, and there are likely to be other groups of ruins that are either unpublicised or undiscovered. 3 best Luxury Cruises on Halong Bay